Tuesday, 19 August 2014

Robert Frost in Rainforest

TWO roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth;       
Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,        10
And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.        15
I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.        20

Neruda on the Amazon River

Poema de Pablo Neruda llamado Phalacrocorax (“guanay”)

Un homenaje a estas aves guaneras, que mantuvieron y levantaron la economía peruana
durante la temprana república y a las que el Perú les debe tanto.


Aves estercolarias de las islas, multiplicada voluntad del vuelo,
celeste magnitud, innumerable emigración del viento de la vida,
cuando vuestros cometas se deslizan, enarenando el cielo sigiloso
del callado Perú, vuela el eclipse.

Oh lento amor, salvaje primavera
que desarraiga su colmada copa y navega la nave de la especie
con un fluvial temblor de agua sagrada, desplazando su cielo caudaloso
hacia las islas rojas del estiércol.

Yo quiero sumergirme en vuestras alas, ir hacia el Sur durmiendo,
sostenido por toda la espesura temblorosa.
Ir en el río oscuro de las flechas, con una voz perdida.
Dividirme en la palpitación inseparable.
Después, lluvia del vuelo, las calcáreas islas abren su frío paraíso
donde cae la luna del plumaje, la tormenta enlutada de las plumas.

El hombre inclina entonces la cabeza ante el arrullo de las aves madres,
y escarba estiércol con las manos ciegas, que levantan las gradas una a una,
raspa la claridad del excremento, acumula las heces derramadas,
y se prosterna en medio de las islas de la fermentación,
como un esclavo, saludando las ácidas riberas
que coronan los pájaros ilustres.

Pablo Neruda
(citado en mail de Ignacio Garcia Godos)

Monday, 23 June 2014

S/Y Fidelis amazing journey

Thursday, 15 May 2014

Amazon Floodplain Adventure

Butterfly, Johnny, Kai, Eileen and Bryan heading into the floods

Buff-necked Ibis

Pink Dolphin
Yellow-headed Caracara

Friday, 9 May 2014

What a day!

Green Oropendola

Black-headed Araçari

Black vulture

Red-caped Cardinal

Lesser-yellow-headed Vulture

All pictures by me china Bryan Hutchings

Thursday, 8 May 2014


IGUANAS are supreme animals. 
They good looking (well, photogenic! Let's put in that way). 
They were worshipped by many native tribes. 
People say that when they were created god was in a good mood. 
I would like to be able to dive, swim, be wise, run,walk of course too; Climb tree, jump...On the next day God was not in a good mood anymore and the Iguanas asked for two more things: One was to be able to fly and the other was having that thing big. The wise iguana was happy to have included in the first list wisdom.

Thursday, 1 May 2014

Great Latin American journeys ( I'm here too)

2. An Amazon boat trip

By Alex Bellos
Of all the colourful fiestas in South America, a particular favourite of mine is the tropical fish festival of Barcelos. The town splits down the middle - one half paints itself black and yellow, the colours of a local angelfish, and the other half dresses up in red and blue, the colour of the neon cardinal. Both sides clash in an all-night extravaganza of music, dance and debauchery.
But Barcelos is difficult to get to. It is in the middle of the Brazilian Amazon, not connected by road to anywhere nor served by any airline a European traveller would trust. The only way to get there was to sail for 200 miles up the Rio Negro from Manaus.
A few travel agencies in Manaus rent boats for bespoke trips. They cater for scientists wanting to explore flora and fauna and adventurous tourists. The boats offered are mostly wooden craft made in the local style, looking much like riverboats of 100 years ago. I would be travelling with a handful of friends and we decided on a small one - the Iguana slept six passengers and came with a crew of four. The price was very reasonable - about £300 per night all-in, working out at £50 per person.
We arrived one evening at Manaus docks and loaded up the Iguana with ice, drink and food. We set off upriver, watching the lights of the city disappear behind us. When I woke up I looked out of the cabin window. It was one of the most mysteriously beautiful sights I have seen. We were in the middle of a flooded forest, surrounded by the silvery tips of hundreds of trees. The water was still and reflective and there was almost total silence.
Fears that the Amazon would be unbearably hot or irritatingly mosquito-infested were unfounded. The Rio Negro is the colour of Coca-Cola because of sediment that also deprives the water of oxygen - meaning no insects.
The trip was unforgettable. At sunrise we would take small canoes and go birdwatching. In the afternoon we would stop at huge sandbanks, barbecue fish we had caught and play Frisbee. Every day we passed maybe a village or two, some days we saw nobody. Our cook, Doña Graça, had a kitchen so small she barely fitted in it. Yet she made extravagant breakfasts of exotic fruits, three-course meals and kept us supplied with a steady stream of caipirinhas. Our guide, Gil Serique, spoke fluent English. One night we went out with a 14-year-old boy who held a torch in his mouth and speared fish from his canoe. After about a week we reached Barcelos. The tropical fish festival was noisy and chaotic and life-affirming. Yet somehow it didn't live up to the boat journey that got us there.
· To book a bespoke boat trip with guide Gil Serique visit www.gilserique.com Prices depend on length of trip and number of people. Alex Bellos is a former South America correspondent for The Observer and The Guardian

Wednesday, 30 April 2014

Another great time in the Amazon: Ecology, History and Wildlife